Thursday, September 15, 2011

Stone Soup Cottage; Cottleville, MO

The Next Best Thing to Real Soup is Stone Soup!

You have to go a long way before finding something as rare as Stone Soup Cottage in Stinktown.

A long, long, way.

Like hundreds of miles of way.

Which probably explains why Jay and I were so excited to learn about this small, fine dining establishment not too far from our own backyard. Of course, being the completely aware and with-it individuals that we are, it took a friend in San Diego to draw our attention to the restaurant before we even knew it existed. But once our food radar was spinning and we started poking around the internets and reading reviews and looking at menus, we knew we just had to pay Stone Soup a visit and see for ourselves how they stacked up against other fine restaurants we've been fortunate enough to visit.

Initially we were set up to dine at the Cottage on our anniversary in May, but due to an error we were bumped that night. We were both pretty upset and neither one of us thought that the owners were sincere when they promised to bring us back for a complimentary dinner. In retrospect this was very unfair of us, but we've had some bad experiences with restaurants not delivering on their promises and had no reason to suspect this situation would be any different.

I mention this only because I want all of you reading to know how entirely wrong Jason and I were about Stone Soup Cottage and its ownership. They bent over backwards to show us how much they regretted the mix-up and treated us so kindly and so generously despite a rather strong email from me, that we will never forget our experience at their hands. Chef Carl and his wife Nancy deserve all the praise that's been heaped on them since the restaurant opened in 2009 - the food and service are top notch and the setting is both intimate and charming. We are thrilled to have such an amazing fine dining establishment so close to home and look forward to sharing this culinary delight with our foodie friends when they come to visit us.

Before I get into our menu, I'd like everyone to remember this: Chef Carl is the only person working the kitchen. He does this all on his own - the man doesn't even have a Sous Chef, which makes the product he turns out just that much more amazing. He and his wife, along with one other lady who assists them, serve the meals, explain the courses, pour the wine, and do everything they can to ensure the comfort and satisfaction of their guests. There really is nothing that compares to Stone Soup in all of St. Louis - if you're a local who loves fine dining you simply must pay them a visit. And if you happen to be out-of-town friendies of Jay and Bendy, well, let's talk about making reservations!

The Cottage itself is a restored 1850s farmhouse that seats about 24 guests on a given evening. Jay and I dined there on a Friday night in June - it was a lovely, relaxing way to end a crazy work week. The dinner menu is a six-course fixed price delight and can be paired with wines for an additional charge; the restaurant also has a small bar area that manages to mix some potent cocktails (I know from firsthand experience!).

Place setting


Bendy and the tastiest Blood Orange Martini in Stinktown


One of the nicest aspects of a fixed menu is that you don't have to do much but wait for each course to arrive - you don't even need to order, so it's a lazy diner's dream! Jay and I were fortunate enough to pass the time with our martinis and some wonderful fresh sourdough bread with the most amazing homemade butter we've ever had the pleasure to sample. It was light and creamy with just a hint of fresh herbiness - the stuff was downright addictive. We actually had to ask for a second bowl later in the evening because neither of us could stop slathering it on bread or anything else that appeared remotely butter-able.

Fresh Bread & House Made Herb Butter


All of the guests that evening were presented with an Amuse Bouche before the first course was served. It's the sad irony of my culinary life that it featured mushrooms, so I just passed it right across the table to Jason. He said it was terrific and I guess we'll just leave it at that!

Morel Mushroom w/Prosciutto & Beurre Blanc


Our first course of the evening was a chilled Lemon Basil Soup finished with Blue Crab. I am going to exhaust my supply of adjectives before I'm finished with this review ... this was simply amazing. In the past when we've been served dishes with a lemon base the other components tended to be smothered by sour / citrus overtones; not so this night. The soup was a lovely blend of subtle flavors that truly complimented each other and set a high level of expectation for the rest of the meal.

Lemon Basil Soup w/Blue Crab


The second course was a warm Eggplant and Smoky Tomato Tartlet served with Micro Greens and Shaved Gouda. The first thing Jason and I noticed about this dish was a wonderful, hickory aroma that wafted up from the plate - that was the smoked tomato, and did it ever pair well with the eggplant and the gouda. In a word: delicious!

Eggplant and Smoked Tomato Tartlet


Our third course was one of my favorites of the entire evening: Pan Seared Digby Bay Scallops with Champagne Sabayon. We don't order scallops in Stinktown - there's no point because they just end up being a chewy, disappointing gack-fest - we save our scalloping for visits to the east or west coast where fresh seafood abounds. However, these were two of the most delicate, smooth, outright delectable scallops we have ever had the joy of eating ... anywhere. Chef Carl explained to us that his local seafood supplier takes daily delivery at the airport and then drives directly to the Cottage to ensure the freshness and quality of their tasty creatures from the sea.

This dish sang - there's no other way to describe it. The scallops were melt-in-my-mouth tender and the champagne sabayon somehow made their texture seem even silkier, while a smattering of diced cucumbers lent just the right amount of crunchy contrast. I could have happily eaten four more courses of scallops, they were just that good.

Pan Seared Digby Bay Scallops


Imagine our surprise when a palate cleanser was then delivered to the table! In keeping with the drink of the evening, Chef Carl had prepared a Pomegranate / Orange Vodka Sorbet that managed to be both delightful and boozily refreshing. One of these days I will have to attempt a recreation here at the house.

Pomegranate Sorbet w/Orange Vodka


The fourth course of the night was Potatoes Mousseline with Shaved Black Truffles. Chef Carl shaved the truffles table-side and was kind enough to give my extra shroom shavings to Jason. I loved the light, fluffy potatoes and thought they had great flavor; I even humored my husband and tried a small piece of his truffle shavings. I must admit, these were surprisingly good and didn't taste at all like dirt, which is one of my biggest complaints about mushrooms in general.

Potatoes Mousseline w/Shaved Black Truffles


Nekkid Potatoes Mousseline Sans Truffles


The fifth course was Tournedos of Beef with Bearnaise and Demi Glace, served with Petite Summer Vegetables. The beef was perfectly cooked, very tender, and quite flavorful. Jay and I both found the demi glace to be a bit salty for our taste, but not so much so that it detracted from our enjoyment of the overall dish.

Tournedos of Beef w/Bearnaise


This next course was not part of the standard menu, but was the result of a conversation that Nancy and I had earlier in the week. Somehow we both ended up talking about our love of cheese at one point and she and Chef Carl were kind enough to provide us each with a cheese plate for our anniversary gluttony. We were given a fabulous local Missouri goat cheese, a brie, and a manchego - they were all so wonderful ... I wish I was eating them right now. It was such a thoughtful gesture on their part and as my husband well knows ... the quickest way to my heart is with a chunk of cheese!!

Surprise Cheese Plate!


Surprise Cheese Plate, V.2


Dessert was a Lemon Curd with Chantilly Creme and a homemade Ladyfinger - an absolutely perfect ending to an incredible meal. We started with lemon and ended with lemon, and in both cases it was light and refreshing and delicious.

Lemon Curd w/Chantilly Creme


Jay and I finished off the evening with some pressed pot coffee and discussed how much we'd enjoyed our experience. Before long we noticed that all the other guests had departed, which gave us a chance to tell Chef Carl and Nancy how incredible the meal and evening had been. We also took the opportunity to thank them again for their kindness to us - Chef Carl then pulled a bottle of wine off their wine rack and handed it to us, telling us to enjoy it with his compliments.

The lengths he and Nancy went to in order to make up for our initial disappointment in May went so far beyond anything we ever would have expected or asked for that words can't adequately describe our gratitude. Stone Soup Cottage is a St. Louis experience not to be missed - the
accolades they've received are well deserved and it's truly the shining star of the local dining scene.

Saturday, September 3, 2011

Milagro Modern Mexican; Webster Groves, MO

Silly Grimace; It's Never Too Hot for Mexican Food!

This tale begins more than a month ago with a random phone call from my mother. She wanted to take Jason and me to lunch over Labor Day weekend. Now you must understand the nature of my mom (or the Grimace as we lovingly refer to her) ... she does not like to spend money on food. In fact, she really doesn't like to spend money on much of anything other than gambling in the hopes that she will win more money to further spend on gambling. There is, however, one way to get her to loosen up in regard to her food budget but it's a method that must be used sparingly and has to be most cunningly deployed.

It's called a coupon.

And she can no more resist using one than she can ignore the siren song of slot machine bells and whistles. So once I mentioned that Jason and I were really keen to try Milagro Modern Mexican and that we had a $10 gift certificate, she was more than halfway persuaded to give up the Red Lobster option she had originally suggested.

The only problem?

The weather.

A late season heatwave had once again blanketed Stinktown with triple-digit heat and oppressive humidity; in Grimace's words, "It's too hot for Mexican food; let's have pasta instead."

"It's too hot for Mexican but it's not too hot for pasta? Are you crazy?"

"I just thought if we met at the Pasta House we could go to the one near where you guys live and you wouldn't have to drive so far to meet us."

The light bulb went on. Grimace thought she was being subtle but I knew exactly what angle she was playing.

"Jay and I don't mind driving down to Webster Groves; you and Jon always drive out here and it's a long way to come. Save your gas for your next drive to Harrah's."

"Weeeeeell, I was hoping to stop at Harrah's on our way back from your local Pasta House."

"We can eat at Pasta House any old time; in fact, everyone in this stinky city has been dining there since the beginning of time. Let's try something new. We have that $10 gift certificate, remember? You will save money that you can use on your Sunday casino visit. And if you hate the food Jason and I will pick up the whole tab and you won't be out any money at all, leaving you with even more gambling money."

And so the deal was sealed.

Jason and I arrived at Milagro about thirty minutes before my parents in order to grab a quick drink and snack in the bar. Once we had a chance to study the menu and learn that they were out of house-infused habanero tequila, ensuring that Jason would once again not be able to order an uber-spicy margarita, we both settled on Milagro's top shelf margarita. This drink was made with Grand Marnier, limonada, and the guest's choice of one of four top shelf Reposado Tequilas. Jason chose Riazul and I chose Tres Generaciories.

The verdict: four thumbs up! These drinks were really well made with the perfect balance of sweet and sour and did they ever pack a smooth punch. We would belly up to the bar and suck these babies down any day of the week, they were just that good.

Top Shelf Margaritas


For snacking we ordered the Tuna Ceviche, which our bartender Andrew assured us was one of his favorite appetizer items listed on the menu. Jay and I love us some tuna and we were not disappointed - it was marinated in lime juice and served with avocado, micro cilantro, mango, and jicama with a wee package of blue corn tostaditas on the side. It was a simply wonderful mix of flavors that we both really enjoyed; Jon liked it a lot too - he was fortunate enough to arrive in time to sample some before Jay and I licked the plate clean!

Tuna Ceviche


We closed out our bar tab and requested a table in the dining room - Grimace doesn't like sitting at the bar because it's too hard to talk. The restaurant was busy but not overly crowded and we were seated right away. After placing our drink orders a complimentary bowl of salsa and warm tortilla chips arrived for our further snacking pleasure. I really liked this salsa, which was big on flavor without shriveling my taste buds with spice. It was thick and chunky with squares of fresh tomato and a lovely peppered smokiness - some of the best salsa I've eaten outside of the homemade stuff that Jay churns out.

Salsa and Chips


Our second round of drinks included a Bloody Maria for Jay, which was so spicy it practically burned a layer from the back of my throat when I sampled it, and a Diamond Margarita for me. The Diamond was the drink special of the day and was similar to the house margarita I ordered earlier only this included a mix of blanco, reposado, and anejo tequilas - once again this was a very tasty drink choice and quite powerful. I needed a nap later in the afternoon to fully recover!

Bloody Maria & Diamond Margarita


Grimace gave us the go-ahead to order an appetizer even though she didn't want anything. After much discussion we decided on the Shrimp Diablo Tostaditas - crisp corn tostaditas, re-fried black beans, shrimp, pickled cabbage, micro cilantro, and spicy chile de arbol salsa. This was pretty good - the shrimp were well cooked and the salsa lent the dish a nice kick without being overpowering. My only quibble is that the salsa soaked through the tostaditas and made them soggy, eliminating a much needed crunch from the dish. I think it would be better served with the salsa on the side, so that texture would be preserved and then the crunch could shine right through.

Shrimp Diablo


Jason doubled down on the appetizers and also ordered a cup of Statesmen Chili - it was made with prime steak, black beans, and five types of chiles topped with cilantro and tortilla chips. He said this was one of the best items he tried all day - the flavor was great and there were big chunks of steak with lots of beans while the mix of chiles provided good heat and flavor. Something tells me that he's going to be re-creating this dish at home during the winter months!

Statesmen Chili


Our lunch entrees arrived shortly thereafter - Grimace ordered the Pork Enchiladas Verdes, which included roasted pork, Mexican cheese, charred tomatillo sauce, and hibiscus pickled onion. She usually orders chicken, so it was good to see her try something new and she really seemed to like her choice.

Pork Enchiladas


Jason selected the Chori Heuvo Torta - a sandwich that included housemade Chorizo sausage, fried egg, pickled jalapeno, queso fresco, and roasted tomatillo salsa. It was served with sweet potato fries and jicama slaw and was the other "best" item that the hubba ordered during our visit. He said it was another great mix of flavors and spice and was like eating brunch between two slices of ciabatta bread.

Chori Heuvo


Jon and I both ordered the Chicken and Chorizo Quesadilla - grilled chicken, chorizo sausage, chile poblano, and melted jack cheese served with chile de arbol salsa, Mexican crema, and guacamole. We both agreed that this was quite tasty and had good flavor; we also both agreed that it was too greasy. Someone in the kitchen should have done a better job of draining the sausage before making the quesadilla. I know from experience that chorizo throws off a whole lot of orange grease while it cooks and it needs to be well drained. Unfortunately, because it wasn't, both of our quesadillas were soaked through with residual sausage grease before we could finish eating. We still enjoyed our selection, but the execution could have been, and should have been, better.

Chicken and Chorizo Quesadilla


Overall, we thought Milagro Modern Mexican was a terrific place. They offer wonderful Mexican food with layers of interesting flavors that isn't the usual Tex-Mex chain junk that we see in Stinktown. Jay and I definitely have added them to our short-list and suggest you give them a try if you haven't already. It will be our pleasure to pay them a repeat visit some day!

Milagro Modern Mexican on Urbanspoon